Restoran Kapitan, Chulia St, Penang

While our love for Penang food has been staunch and unquestionable, somehow, my dear sisters and I have managed to remain mutedly neutral for the longest time over one famed quarter, Nasi Kandar. I'm not quite sure why. A case of not having it properly programmed into our neural receptors? Or just that we've simply not had the good fortune of a remarkable encounter with this much-loved spice and rice extravaganza?

So when Fat Tulip suggested Nasi Kandar today at Restoran Kapitan, I was hesitant at first but decided to be agreeable for a change. As we walked into the shop, the gorgeous aroma of freshly grilled meat and spices hit us and pretty much turned me into an instant Nasi Kandar convert.

My plate consisted of (from right, clockwise) curry chicken, long beans, potato & shrimp stew on rice (nasi kurang) doused in gravy, one gallon.

Fat Tulip had more greens and fat, scary-looking fish roe (left). He also ordered the A+ star dish of the day, the freshly grilled Chicken Biryani.

Ooh la la. This was good chicken. Moist, tender with plenty of lime and spices to boot.

Today's foray has piqued my interest in mamak cuisine and I intend to come back for more. I hear that it's important to go to the right places (plenty to choose from) as there are just as many, if not more, places serving diabolical nasi kandar as good ones. Restoran Kapitan seems dependable enough. The Chicken Biryani (with rice) and the Tandoori Chicken look especially interesting. It is located at the corner of Lorong Pitt and Chulia Street.