Porto Romano in Mont Kiara fitted the bill, a very choice suggestion by H. It stood in stately isolation next to Wendy's in front of Mont Kiara Banyan condominum, a safe distance away from the mob at Hartamas and Solaris. I even found parking right in front of the restaurant!
We decided to split entree and mains. Porto Romano's Seafood Soup arrived, gorgeously red and earthy, featuring prawns, squid and clams. Thoroughly delightful and refreshing, it paved the way for the heavier pizza that arrived within seconds of the soup.