Laksa showdown, Balik Pulau

After days and days of sedentary feasting, we figured it was time to put to use them trainers we lugged back from KL. So off hiking to Monkey Beach (Muka Head) we went.

Penang National Park, gateway to some of the lushest offerings of Penang, away from its street food and crazed drivers. We took it slow and easy, as the other two had just been dragged out of bed from a very late alcohol-fuelled night.

The mid-point of the hike, at USM Beach. I found this stretch nicer than the final point of destination, Monkey Beach.

When we got to Monkey Beach, it was nearly 2.30PM and we were eager to get on to the next item of the itinerary for the day. So we called Pak Atan, resident boat operator and arranged for a boat to take us through choppy waters back to the jetty.

From there it was a 20-minute drive through the leafy, winding roads to the small, sleepy town of Balik Pulau, where the showdown of the two famous laksa stalls rages on. Much has been argued for and against either camp but we were intent on making our own judgement this visit.

First up was the Chuan Heong laksa stall, previously operating outside wet market opposite.

They had run out of Siamese laksa, so we all went for Assam Laksa. Upon first taste, a distinct hush of disappointment fell over the table. It was a pretty mean bowl of laksa without a doubt but having heard all that we had, and our levels of anticipation multiplied from that hike, it just didn't hit the mark. The kopitiam did serve up very reinvigorating fresh nutmeg juice though, which we downed with relish.

Next stop was Nan Guan's equally coveted offering, right across the road where we got our "cham" fix (mix of both Assam and Siamese laksa), washed down with yet more nutmeg juice.

The single stall, single-handedly wowing hordes of visitors to the sedate little town of Balik Pulau.


The verdict? Nan Guan triumphs, hands down. It packs a punch and a half, the bowl teeming with beautiful, simple ingredients, swimming in that bountiful fishy soup. We didn't hike just for this, but we could've and it would've been well worth it.